Baxedes Santorini – The Beach Below Oia

Baxedes Santorini: The Beach Below Oia

Baxedes Santorini – also written Mpaxedes or Baxes – is a long stretch of dark sand and pebbles on the north coast of the island, about three kilometres below Oia. It is the beach for people who want to swim rather than to be seen swimming. Book with Santorini Tours, a licensed local operator.

The name of Baxedes Santorini comes from the Turkish word for garden. This corner of the island was market gardens and vineyards, watered from the winter rain, and the fields still run down almost to the shore. Rows of tamarisk trees were planted along the back of the beach to hold the sand, and they are the reason Baxedes Santorini has something almost no other beach on Santorini offers: real shade, for free, without renting an umbrella.

There is very little else. A handful of tavernas, a few sunbeds in high season, and several kilometres of empty coast running east towards Kolumbo.

Where it is

On the north coast, about three kilometres from Oia and two from Finikia, roughly twenty-five minutes from Fira and half an hour from the airport.

Why go

For shade, space, black sand, shallow water and a taverna lunch, twenty minutes from the most crowded village in Greece.

What Baxedes Santorini Is Like

The sand

Dark grey to black, coarse, mixed with pebbles at the waterline. It is volcanic, it holds heat, and in August it will burn bare feet by eleven in the morning.

The tamarisks

The distinguishing feature. A line of trees along the back of the beach throwing genuine shade onto the sand. On an island where shade is a rented commodity, this matters more than it sounds.

The water

Shallow and gently shelving for a long way out, which makes Baxedes Santorini one of the few beaches on the island that genuinely suits small children. The bottom is sand and small stones.

The wind

This is the trade-off and it is worth being straight about it. The beach faces north and the meltemi comes from the north. On a windy summer day it blows straight onshore, the sea turns choppy and the sand moves. On a calm day it is superb. Check the forecast, and if it is blowing hard, go to the south coast instead.

The facilities

Minimal by design. A few tavernas set back from the sand, some sunbeds and umbrellas in July and August, and nothing else – no bar strip, no water sports, no music.

The space

Kilometres of it. Baxedes Santorini runs east into Paradisos and on towards Kolumbo, and the further you walk the emptier it gets.

Getting to Baxedes Santorini

Driving to Baxedes Santorini. Down from Oia on the road to the north coast, about three kilometres and ten minutes, or twenty-five minutes from Fira. There is parking along the road behind the beach and it is free.

By bus. Services run to Oia frequently; from there you need a taxi or a walk. There is no reliable direct service to the beach, so a car or a transfer is easier.

On foot from Finikia. About two kilometres downhill through the vineyards, past the chapels of Agia Paraskevi and Agios Konstantinos. It is the best short walk at this end of the island and it takes around forty minutes. More on Finikia.

On foot from Oia. Around three kilometres down. Easy going out, hard coming back in August.

By transfer. Our Oia and Finikia transfer covers this end of the island, and our private transfers run from the airport and both ports from 40€ per vehicle.

How long to allow

Half a day. Baxedes Santorini is a beach to spend an afternoon on and finish with a late lunch, not a stop on a driving tour.

Baxedes Compared With the Other Beaches

Against Kamari and Perissa. Those are the big organised black sand beaches on the east and south coasts – long promenades, hundreds of sunbeds, bars, water sports and several thousand people. Baxedes Santorini has none of that and never will. Kamari · Perissa.

Against Perivolos. The beach club end of the south coast. The opposite proposition. More on Perivolos.

Against Monolithos. The closest match in character – shallow, family friendly, quiet, with tamarisks and a couple of tavernas. Monolithos is on the east coast and is calmer when the north wind blows. More on Monolithos.

Against the Red and White beaches. Those are dramatic coves reached by boat or a rough track on the southwest coast, for looking at rather than for a day out. Red Beach · White Beach.

Against Vlychada. Strange wind-carved white cliffs over black sand, on the south coast and sheltered from the north wind. The obvious alternative on a day when Baxedes Santorini is blowing. More on Vlychada.

Practical Notes for Baxedes Santorini

Check the wind before driving to Baxedes Santorini. The single most useful thing on this page. North wind means go south instead.

Shoes for the sand. Black volcanic sand in August is genuinely too hot to cross barefoot at midday.

Shade. The tamarisks are free and they fill up. Arrive by eleven or bring an umbrella.

Water and food. There are tavernas, but no supermarket. Buy anything else in Oia or Finikia on the way down.

Cash. Assume the sunbeds want it.

Children. The shallow entry makes Baxedes Santorini one of the better family beaches on the island on a calm day, and one of the worse ones on a windy one.

Facilities. No lifeguard. Treat it as an unsupervised beach.

Sunset. The beach faces north, so the sun goes down along the coast to your left rather than into the sea in front of you. For the famous version, drive back up to Oia.

When to Visit Baxedes Santorini

May and June. The best window for Baxedes Santorini. The sea has warmed, the meltemi has not settled into its summer pattern and the beach is nearly empty.

July and August. Warmest water and strongest wind. On calm days it is excellent and on windy days it is unusable. The tamarisk shade earns its keep.

September. Warm sea, lighter winds, very few people. Probably the best month overall at Baxedes Santorini.

October. Still swimmable early in the month. The tavernas begin to close.

November to April. Empty, often windswept, and worth a walk for the black sand and the tamarisks alone.

Time of day

Late morning for calm water, late afternoon for the light. Midday in August is punishing on black sand.

Frequently Asked Questions About Baxedes Santorini

How is it spelled? Baxedes, Mpaxedes or Baxes – all the same beach. The name comes from the Turkish word for garden.

Where is it? On the north coast of Santorini, about three kilometres below Oia.

Is Baxedes worth visiting? Yes, on a calm day. It has real shade, black sand, shallow water and a fraction of the crowds of Kamari or Perissa.

Is it sandy? Dark grey and black sand with pebbles at the waterline.

Is it good for children? On a calm day, yes – the water is shallow and shelves gently. On a windy day, no.

Is it windy? Often. The beach faces north and the meltemi blows onshore in summer. Check the forecast before driving down.

Is there shade? Yes, from the tamarisk trees along the back of the beach, which is unusual on this island and free.

Are there sunbeds? A few in July and August. Not rows of them.

Are there tavernas? A handful set back from the sand.

Is there parking? Yes, along the road behind the beach, free.

How far is Oia? About three kilometres, ten minutes by car.

Can I walk there from Finikia? Yes, about two kilometres downhill through the vineyards, roughly forty minutes.

Is it crowded? No. Baxedes Santorini is several kilometres long and most of it is empty.

Where do I go if it is too windy? The south coast – Vlychada, Perissa or Perivolos.

Tours That Include Baxedes Santorini

We are a licensed local operator with guides who live on the island year round. Prices are per vehicle rather than per person, pickup is included from anywhere including both ports, and an 80€ deposit confirms the date.

North part tour – the northern half of the island, including Oia and the north coast.

Full day tour – eight hours from 460€, the whole island with a traditional village stop.

Personalised tour – from 220€, built around the beaches if that is what you want.

Wine tour – four and a half hours from 650€, three estates with all tastings included, including the vineyards above this coast.

Every itinerary and all prices are on the santorini tours page, and our private transfers cover the airport and both ports from 40€.

Is Baxedes Santorini Worth the Trip?

On a calm day Baxedes Santorini is absolutely worth it. Three kilometres below the most crowded village in Greece there is a long black beach with trees on it, shallow water, a taverna and almost nobody. That combination does not exist anywhere else on the island.

On a windy day, no. The meltemi comes straight onshore and you will spend the afternoon eating sand. Drive twenty minutes to the south coast instead and come back another day.

Check the forecast, go in the morning, take the tamarisk shade, and stay for a late lunch.

Send us your dates and we will build a day around this end of the island.

Everywhere We Can Reach From Baxedes Santorini

Any of these can be built into a private itinerary. Each has its own page with what to see and how long to allow.

Caldera villages: Fira · Firostefani · Imerovigli · Oia · Finikia

Inland villages: Pyrgos · Megalochori · Emporio · Mesaria · Karterados · Vothonas · Vourvoulos · Exo Gonia · Mesa Gonia · Pigadia

Beaches: Perissa · Perivolos · Kamari · Vlychada · Monolithos · Red Beach · White Beach · Agios Georgios · Agia Paraskevi

Sites and landmarks: Akrotiri · Ancient Thira · Akrotiri Lighthouse · Nea Kameni · Palia Kameni · Thirasia · Athinios Port

All our tours: All Santorini tours · Full day tour · Sightseeing tour · Personalised tour · North part tour · Horse riding · South part tour · Sunset tour · Shore excursion · Caldera tour · Food experience · Wine tour · Historical tour · Small group tour

Planning and services: Famous sights tour · Private transfers · Transfers to Oia and Finikia · Transfers to other villages · Villages of Santorini · History of Santorini · Tours near you · Languages we guide in · Food and fun tours · Gay friendly tours · Our tour buses · Daily tours · Day tours · FAQ · Gallery · Tour photo gallery · About us · Contact · Blog